A huge number of well-dressed, well-heeled collectors of heels gathered at New York’s Park Avenue Armory on the opening day of Salon Art + Design, the annual collectible design and art trade show held from November 9th to 13th. It was crowded.
Approximately 50 exhibitors from several countries displayed vintage, modern and contemporary art and design objects in a variety of collectibles categories. Among them were his 10 exhibitors dotting the exhibition hall displaying jewelry.
Mr. Didier and Martine Haspesras of London-based jewelery dealer Didier Ltd. were delighted to have jewelers on the main floor of the trade show for the first time. Previously, they were scattered in the corners of the outdoor rooms or, in Didier’s case, the entrance lobby.
The couple specializes in jewelry by late 20th century artists who are best known for their work in other artistic mediums, such as sculpture and painting. They source all of their pieces from the secondary market and are undoubtedly the niche market leader in this category. Among their wide and diverse group of gemstones are special focuses. This time, American artists and American craft jewelers participated.
Among the pieces they presented was a brass clock pendant called “Fortune Teller” by Cindy Sherman. This photo is one of her most famous, a stylized recreation of the shaman herself as a fortune teller, wearing her costume and holding a crystal ball. Other pieces include a spiral brooch by famed American sculptor Alexander Calder, and an Andy Warhol Times/Times piece with five dials corresponding to different time zones, each displaying a photo of New York. 5 watch bracelets were included. This is one of 250 pieces.
Sylvia Furmanovic’s black-painted wall exhibition space was filled with colorful jewelry and decorative upholstery using Japanese craft techniques such as bamboo weaving, lacquerware, and wood carving.
Another section featured five jewelers from an artist gallery called Elevated Matters, founded by Hudson, New York-based jewelry artist Chris Davis. His work is influenced by traditional jewelry design and craftsmanship, as well as high fashion. His pieces are textural and flowing, often draped across the body. Davis has developed a technique he calls “textile granulation,” which involves weaving intricate granular designs that often wrap around gemstones. Like most of his works, they have a fabric-like texture.
Another jeweler in the group was Stella Flame, who presented pieces that combined her design aesthetic with Turkish craftsmanship. Andy Riff’s sculptural 18-carat gold pieces often incorporate prica à jour, a vitreous enamel treatment. Elizabeth her Garvin specializes in metallurgy and creates unique geometric jewelry. And a wonderful gem from Anthony Lent.
DK Farnum features classic 20th century jewelry from the famous jeweler. What caught my eye in the center of the cabinet was a large 18K yellow gold snake necklace with a removable head that can also be worn as a pendant. Another piece that stood out was the Cartier Star Bombe earrings in 18K yellow gold and diamonds, circa 1950s.
Israeli jeweler Ibel’s exhibition space was filled with large, colorful gemstones, exquisite pearl jewelry, and sculptures. Among them was a candy-colored Fantasia flower brooch made of pearls, tourmalines, gold, and diamonds.
Also exhibiting was Rosior, a family-run Portuguese jewelry brand founded in 1870. All of the company’s finely crafted pieces are produced in-house.
Main image: Sylvia Furmanovic earrings with diamonds, malachite, embroidered spheres with laces and green stabilized wood. (Silvia Furmanovic)
This article is by Rappaport jewelry appraiser.